Having had several amazing days in the Andes in Huaraz it was time to head back to the city. A lovely day bus going across the mountain range, then the desert with the coast to our right and we arrived Lima late afternoon. We’d heard so many good stories about the food on offer in Peru’s capital so we were quite excited. With many neighbourhoods to choose from we decided to stay in Miraflores. Miraflores is where a lot of the bars, restaurants and hostels are based so it was handy having everything walking distance more or less. For our first night we went out for some Sushi – a crispy salmon roll, spicy tuna and a prawn roll – a few drinks in an Irish bar and an early night after spending 8 hours on a bus.
For our first full day we had a great breakfast courtesy of our hostel before going for a walk along the cliffs overlooking the ocean. Bar a few summer months Lima has very consistent weather.. cloud! Here’s a fun fact for pub quizzes, Lima is the 2nd driest city in the world behind Cairo. You may thank us later! The walk took us to a Paddington bear statue, the lovers park (fairly self-explanatory which photo that is), views of Lima’s high baller flats and lots of people on their morning run.
All this looking at people exercising was starting to make us hungry, so we went to Lima’s famous sandwich shop, La Lucha. We both went for the pork chicharron sandwich. Chicharron is a Peruvian deep frying method. We were surprised when the pork only had a deep fried crust, so relatively healthy. The sandwich came with a base layer of sweet potato, followed by the pork with a citrus salad topping. It was so good. Up there in the top 3 of all sandwiches ever eaten. Bravo Lima sandwich shop La Lucha.
Our evening plan of nice food was interrupted. Interrupted by a ridiculously long happy hour in an bar and a pub quiz. Many pints were drank, a bowl of chips was all that was eaten. Sorry mothers.
The next day we set out in the morning for a long hangover cure walk. We decided to walk from Miraflores down to another well known district, Barranco. The walk took us past even nicer apartments than what we had seen in Miraflores, clearly this is the place to be if you’re rolling in it. The walk was also stunning overlooking the Pacific ocean and really hit the spot for curing our headaches. We arrived in Barranco just in time for lunch. We walked over El Puente de los Suspiros, a bridge where if you hold your breath whilst crossing you get granted a wish. We then took some photos of the main square where some of the buildings looked like they are straight out of a western movie. On the square there was an Argentinian restaurant offering a nice set menu of spinach soup, lasagne and a passion fruit juice. We then walked around Barranco some more, found the 4th best restaurant in the world, Central. Looked amazing, unfortunately the tasting course was slightly out of budget at $130 per person or $200 with wines. That and the fact it was fully booked for the next month. Maybe next time. In total we walked about 16km unintentionally.
After a bit of clothes shopping in the afternoon we decided to try out a burger restaurant that night. Not very local we know but Papacho’s looked excellent and lots of people raved about it. We arrived and on the tables you have a drawing paper and crayons to draw whatever you like. So after deciding on our burgers we got to work at drawing each other. As you can see one of us is a slightly less rubbish than the other… Niamh had a BBQ burger with caramelized onion, gherkin, onion ring, cheese, lettuce and tomato. Stu had a bacon, cheese, lingonberry sauce, onion ring, lettuce and tomato. Both served with sweet potato fries. The beef patty came as standard, 200g, but there was an option to upgrade to 300g. We both sensibly decided not to after the amount already eaten that day!
For our final day in Lima we decided to first go on a run down the beach front and then commit to the walking tour in the morning. Unfortunately this was probably the worst one we have done. There were 3 guides for over 50 people. This was way too many, we couldn’t get any of the information and it took too long to go from A to B. In the end we left before the end to go get some lunch and watch the Peru football game that was on. The old historic centre was lovely however the main square was semi-closed due to protests because of the upcoming local elections but we eventually got in and managed to see the changing of the guard which was brilliant. We walked into an amazing cathedral and also a building that originally had a glass roof but got destroyed in an earthquake. It is now just left open as Lima gets so little rain everything is protected on the inside regardless.
By the time we got back to Miraflores Niamh was starting to feel ill and unfortunately couldn’t join Stu on his night out with a few others in an Irish pub with live music and a club afterwards. It was great meeting up with Steph and Karla who were on our San Blas Islands tour again. All in all a very good night out!
This brought our time in Lima to and end, we had a great time here, really enjoyed the food (if you couldn’t tell) and the walking about to different places. Our next stop is Huacachina, an oasis town on the outskirts of Ica in Southern Peru where we ate a normal amount!